With a somewhat sweetened tobacco and a sueded leather that seems velvety to the touch, Karikia boldly unfolds. And it’s lively and endearing from the very beginning. The scent of dried grass and hay soon permeates the barnyard, bringing the perfume outside. The perfume has a hint of honeyed tobacco and is brimming with energy.
Perfume All over the World
The perfume has a very earthy scent, yet it also has a crisp, polished vibe similar to a linen shirt that has been left outside to dry. At that point, rather than a powdery layer, the perfume actually starts to dry. The dried soil is being whipped up by the winds as they bounce off the plains.
Generations of Tradition Inspire a Complex Tobacco Fragrance
Tobacco farming has been a way of life for many families in Northern Greece, especially in the past century. My ancestors’ stories about the meticulous process, from planting to harvest, sparked the inspiration for this intricate tobacco-based perfume.
These stories, along with visits to remaining tobacco fields, fueled my desire to capture the essence of this tradition in a fragrance. “Karíkia” (Καρίκια), specially built mounds of earth, were a key part of the process. Seedlings, nurtured in protected nurseries, were transplanted there after reaching a specific height.
This perfume reflects the multifaceted nature of tobacco. Expect earthy and dry notes alongside sweet and resinous ones, along with brighter, more foresty, and even slightly metallic (aldehydic) tones.
The fragrance opens with a burst of freshness (aldehydes) and citrus (blood orange) balanced by the warmth of acacia and oakwood. A touch of saffron adds a hint of spice. The heart reveals the star of the show – tobacco leaves – surrounded by a supporting cast of intriguing notes. Blue tansy and boronia absolute offer herbal nuances, while frankincense and pepper add depth.
Nutmeg, woods (Hinoki, cypress, Siamese wood, mahogany, cedarwood), and creamy vanilla create a complex and rich base. The drydown is anchored by a luxurious blend of tobacco absolute, sweet and savory elements (hazelnut syrup pancake, tonka bean), and classic base notes like hay absolute, beeswax, and a touch of castoreum (a lab-made recreation). The final touch of Australian sandalwood and ambergris ensures a long-lasting and sophisticated scent experience.
Rougewood: A Love Potion in a Bottle
Rougewood isn’t your average fruity fragrance. It explodes with a burst of juicy, sun-warmed berries and sparkling grapefruit, instantly captivating with a touch of peach blossom that’s both decadent and alluring. But fear not, there’s no overwhelming sweetness here. A hint of soft caramel adds depth without ever becoming cloying.
Finally, a touch of sharpened wood arrives to balance the sweetness, making Rougewood undeniably wearable and surprisingly comforting. From the first spritz, this fragrance feels like a magical love potion, ready to draw affection towards the wearer.